Deer-Resistant Planting Tips
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- May
- 14
For some reason I got an invite to a deer-resistant gardening talk and demo at Cambria Nursery in Calif. in November.
No thanks, a bit far. But I thought I’d share the press release because the speaker, Shana McCormick, has some great tips for home gardeners.
There’s a plant list at the end here, but be warned that it may have more West Coast-friendly plants than you’re used to seeing on these lists. I also see a couple of things here that get eaten in my yard.
Here’s a link to the Mohonk Mountain House list of deer-resistant plants. And a link to a Cornell University site with plant lists and tons of good info.
I’ve added a few of my own photos here, too.
Now, from California:
“Expert in Deer-Resistant Gardening Shares Plant-Saving Tips
Without Losing Heart for Nature
“Pacific Grove, CA—As director of grounds for Cambria Pines Lodge’s five acres of themed gardens in Cambria on California’s Central Coast, Shana McCormick thought she had seen it all when it came to plants and pests. That all changed when her employer, Moonstone Hotel Properties, asked her to revitalize the landscaping at the Deer Haven Inn in Pacific Grove, two hours north near Monterey, California.
“It’s ‘deer land’ up there,” McCormick says. “Pacific Grove is an area that is heavily populated by deer, and I’ve never seen anything like it. In Cambria we get two or three at a time, but in Pacific Grove you see herds, maybe 25 at a time. It’s intimidating and they aren’t remotely bothered by us.”
“Deeply committed to horticulture and gardening, McCormick has a soft spot for animals, too. “I am passionate about habitat gardening and feel that it’s advantageous to take care of other species, particularly during times of drought,” says McCormick, who can be found shaking loose fruit off her trees at home so that the raccoons have something to eat.
“With the Deer Haven Inn’s close proximity to deer-friendly Asilomar State Park and the Del Monte Forest, it was vital to implement a strategy that could accommodate wildlife as well as the inn’s grounds. Enter McCormick and what was to be her biggest deer challenge yet.
“Our goal was to create deer-proof curb appeal,” McCormick says, explaining that she gutted the old landscaping, extended the border garden and planted densely in order to create a beautiful look that could withstand some nibbling by deer.
“A deer-resistant garden doesn’t have to be boring or ugly,” McCormick says, adding that this is a chance to be creative with plants like ornamental grasses, society garlic, ornamental thyme, lambs ear and wallflowers.
(Lamb’s ear from Lenoir Preserve in Yonkers):

“You find a genus of plants that deer stay away from, like daisies. And then from that huge family of plants you have a wide selection of foliage, blossoms and colors from which to choose.” She warns that in the fall desperately thirsty deer will nibble on plants that they normally don’t like, thus the need for lots of plants no matter what the genus.

“Months after tackling the grounds at Deer Haven Inn, McCormick visited to see how her work had fared. “The inn’s deer-resistant landscaping is doing surprisingly well,” she says. “We seem to have found an approach allowing both realms of nature to co-exist.”
Deer-Resistant Gardening Class:
McCormick will offer a demonstration and talk on deer-resistant gardening on Nov. 29, 2008 at Cambria Nursery & Florist in Cambria, California. For information, please call 805-927-4747 or visit www.gardenersevents.com.
“Shana McCormick’s Tips for A Deer-Resistant Landscape that Cares for Wildlife, Too:
-Buy plants in a larger size so that they mature quickly. Plants with more foliage can better tolerate nipping by deer during the dry months. Lavatera bicolor planted during the rainy season will almost double in size by the time the drought season hits.
-Plant densely and in abundance so that there is enough to share with the deer. For example, if you plant a grouping of three to five penstemon during the rainy season, they’ll be hardy enough by fall to withstand grazing by thirsty deer.
-Avoid planting in the fall when deer are attracted to plants that they usually don’t like.
-Choose plants that the deer seem to avoid in your climate by observing what is thriving.
-Before landscaping, watch to see if deer use your property as a grazing path. If they do, block the path with temporary netting to disrupt their established routine.
-Test a plant’s “deer appeal” before buying large quantities. Leave them within reach of deer for two weeks.
-Avoid using plants known to attract deer. Roses and fruit trees will bring deer to a house that has never had problems previously. If deer live within five miles of your property, they will find what you’ve planted for them!
-Use drought-resistant plants and water them just enough to keep them healthy. Over watering attracts deer to plants they normally avoid. For example, it’s common to see a coffeeberry bush thriving in the wild, but the same plant, if over watered in a residential setting, will be devoured.
-Make your yard uncomfortable for deer by using outdoor lights and sprinklers with motion-detector switches; put a radio in a waterproof box and play on low through the night; let your dog roam through the yard and leave some poop piles as warnings to the deer; chase the deer when you see them.
-Place pungent plants as a protective wall around plants that are attractive to deer. For example, surround a five gallon blue hibiscus with three to five peppermint-scented geraniums. The deer will not walk through the fragrant geranium foliage.
-Use sprays on all new plantings, particularly during the dry months. Cambria Nursery & Florist recommends “Liquid Fence.” Bloodmeal is also effective when sprinkled on foliage and flowers.
-Build a fence. In Cambria, a six-foot fence is usually sufficient.
Deer-Resistant Plants:
SHRUBS and TREES
Aesculus californica (California buckeye)
Buddleja (butterfly bush):

Callistemon (bottlebrush)
Buxus (boxwood)
Chamaecyparis (false cypress)
Calycanthus occidentalis (spice bush)
Cupressus (cypress)
Carpenteria californica (bush anemone)
Eucalyptus Ceanothus
Ginkgo biloba (maidenhair tree)
Choisya ternate (Mexican orange)
magnolia Cistus (rockrose)
Maytenus boaria (mayten)
Coleonema (breath of heaven)
Melaleuca Correa (Australian fuchsia)
Olea europaea (olive)
Osteospermum (African or freeway daisy)
Palms Pelargonium (Geranium)
Picea (spruce)
Penstemon
Pinus (pine)
Perovskia (Russian sage)
Podocarpus Plectranthus
Quercus
Rudbeckia hirta (gloriosa daisy)
Sequoia sempervirens (coast redwood)
Salvias
Santolina
ANNUALS
Stachys byzantina (lambs ear)
Begonia
Tanacetum vulgare (tansy):

Cleome (spider flower):

Tulbaghia violacia (society garlic)
Digitalis (foxglove)
Thymus (thyme)
Echium vulgare
Verbena bonariensis:

Gomphrena (globe amaranth)
Verbena
Myosotis (forget-me-not)
Zantedeschia (calla lily)
Salvia sclarea (clary sage)
Tithonia rotundifolia (Mexican sunflower):

VINES
Hedera (ivy)
Solanum jasminoides (potato vine)
Jasminum (jasmine)
Thunbergia gregorii (orange clock vine)
Solanum jasminoides (potato vine)
Thunbergia gregorii (orange clock vine)



Bill Cary grew up in Louisville, Ky. His gardening was limited to growing parsley and impatiens on the windowsill of Manhattan walkups until the mid-1990s when he bought a rundown old chicken farm on 8 acres in the Hudson Valley. Now he spends his weekends chasing deer, hacking away at invasive shrubs and vines and wondering why he doesn`t have more meadow and less lawn.






